Monday, July 2, 2012
Internet sensations should be avoided
I must stress this glossy pictures and slick words do not make for a wheel builder, time and experience do. Serving time under a master is the only way to truly be a master builder. When learning you really need someone to watch over you and give info that you will need. With out serving time under a master the is no substitute for this experience. With out a master things can be done wrong and dangerously so. A technician is not a mechanic they are incapable of fixing thing that have not yet learned the intricacies of a fine working machine. Mechanics can fix , repair, and build that have the depth of knowledge to do thing correctly.
Why am I rehashing this in the past moths I have fixed a dozen wheels made by one particular internet sensation this tec as he call himself builds incorrectly, uses no thread lock and uses maximum tension. I am tired of seeing people being endangered and wasting peoples money ..... something I never do
Wednesday, May 18, 2011
A commitment to individual service .....
A commitment to individual service with out the cookie cutter industry standard , that is my commitment to a client. I will no longer use the term customer as that is too broad of a statement that implies the fore mentioned cookie cutter service. I will only recommend what I believe is the best for the customer after discerning from them their needs.
When add a new client with a preexisting bicycle, I will take that bike back down to bare bones and begin anew with that frame and components. I will ensure that the frame is precisely aligned and properly chased and faced. I will clean , inspect and recommend replacements / service needed. When finished the bicycle will be assembled into a precision tool for cycling.
When I build a client a wheel or set of wheels they will be individual to that customer alone. The wheel will have specific spoke choice, tension and rim for that customer alone. most wheel builders will tell you that rim and spoke have just one tension to be at this is false on so many levels as riders have differing needs and weights that effect the tension of a wheels. All hand built wheels have a range of tensions to be at most wheel builders only tension at the upper end of the scale, again this is wrong and does the client no use. A wheel has to work in conjunction with frame and rider to produce the desired results. If a wheel has to high a tension for a light weight rider who is doing no more than touring or fitness riding on an overly stiff frame that rider in most cases is not enjoying their rides due to the harness of all things combined.
When add a new client with a preexisting bicycle, I will take that bike back down to bare bones and begin anew with that frame and components. I will ensure that the frame is precisely aligned and properly chased and faced. I will clean , inspect and recommend replacements / service needed. When finished the bicycle will be assembled into a precision tool for cycling.
When I build a client a wheel or set of wheels they will be individual to that customer alone. The wheel will have specific spoke choice, tension and rim for that customer alone. most wheel builders will tell you that rim and spoke have just one tension to be at this is false on so many levels as riders have differing needs and weights that effect the tension of a wheels. All hand built wheels have a range of tensions to be at most wheel builders only tension at the upper end of the scale, again this is wrong and does the client no use. A wheel has to work in conjunction with frame and rider to produce the desired results. If a wheel has to high a tension for a light weight rider who is doing no more than touring or fitness riding on an overly stiff frame that rider in most cases is not enjoying their rides due to the harness of all things combined.
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Lets talk about hype over experience
First thing you need to know anyone who calls themselves a technician is not someone who has a vast and deep experience level in bicycle mechanics. Those that call themselves a mechanic generally have dept of experience. Internet sales is a difficult proposition selling wheels and pro bikes even more so you need someone with a lot of experience not hype. Both sales take a person that can ask and get answers out of a customer to get them headed in the right direction. These sales also demand that a buyer be proficient and know their fit and needs well. Blog only sellers with no depth of experience are risky especially ones that relight on this as their only sales. A good to great wheel builder will have thousands of wheel under their belt before striking out on their own not someone who only has hundreds and most by internet sales alone. As an example before I sell a hand built wheel I will as at least two dozen questions even if this is a face to face meeting, more so if not. If you are buying a bike by internet all built you need to know your fit (IE contact points down to the 0.5mm). A tec. that solely depend on internet sales may be all flash in the pan and not have the best tools and or knowledge. There reputation may solely depend on coordination of parts and accessories to the frame. ( IE fashion over function) Dose this tec. measure and inspect the frame for quality and alignment, do they face and chase with top quality tools or do they just buy the cheapest they can afford on a shoe string budget since a blog is free anyways. mechanics will invest in the very best they can obtain and afford even if they have to wait a bit to gather the money to do so. Tools and technique matter in this industry fail them and things can go bad easily. A mechanic will pick a tool that will last decades under use and fit their own ergonomics, they will not choose to buy the cheapest.
Friday, January 28, 2011
I am the real deal ...
I pull no punches when it comes to parts, builds and maintenance. I have no brand loyalties or underwriters if parts work they get recommended/ used. My dogma is build it right or do not bother.
It is time for yearly maintenance time to strip the bike down to the bare frame leaving only the head set in the frame. ( unless it needs replacing) This is the time to replace all the cables& housing, bar tape, bearings and any fasteners that have corrosion. Time to inspect all parts thoroughly after cleaning/ de-greasing.
Big tips use the best bearings you can afford, use standard or stainless fasteners it is not worth risking failures with AL or TI bot are inferior fasteners for differing reasons the weight you save is minimal in comparison to safety. ( some pros do use them but they are switched out quite frequently)
My suggestions do not spend a lot on bar tape or chains as you will be changing them frequently. Chains should be changed every 1-1.5k bar tape every 3k as the cables and house will be changed at that time too. Shift cables every 1k to keep the shifting performance up to peak.
CX amd MTB racers I can not strongly enough suggest that no CF seat posts be used . This is a component that takes a lot of stress and has a high failure rate in these disciplines. Use an high quality alloy post it may just save you from a DNF or injury one day.
It is time for yearly maintenance time to strip the bike down to the bare frame leaving only the head set in the frame. ( unless it needs replacing) This is the time to replace all the cables& housing, bar tape, bearings and any fasteners that have corrosion. Time to inspect all parts thoroughly after cleaning/ de-greasing.
Big tips use the best bearings you can afford, use standard or stainless fasteners it is not worth risking failures with AL or TI bot are inferior fasteners for differing reasons the weight you save is minimal in comparison to safety. ( some pros do use them but they are switched out quite frequently)
My suggestions do not spend a lot on bar tape or chains as you will be changing them frequently. Chains should be changed every 1-1.5k bar tape every 3k as the cables and house will be changed at that time too. Shift cables every 1k to keep the shifting performance up to peak.
CX amd MTB racers I can not strongly enough suggest that no CF seat posts be used . This is a component that takes a lot of stress and has a high failure rate in these disciplines. Use an high quality alloy post it may just save you from a DNF or injury one day.
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Tubulars
There is a lot of misinformation and conjecture of tubulars, I want to demystify them for you here and now.
The first thing you need to know is paitence , second thing is cleanliness with these two skills you will have success.
This system requires several days 4 at a minimum because of stretching and drying time of the glue.
Tires need to be stretched on the rims that they will be used on , this is important because not all rims from different manufacturers are the same dimensions. ( usually with in one manufacturer they are the same ) Most tires will go on quite easily on new rims. There is an exception Continental's tires are always on the very tight side there is an excepted trick to help them along, it dose add extra time to the process. Wetting the base tame and gently pushing on the tubular from the valve stem down with make things easier. Once the tire is on it should be inflated to 40-60lbs so that it can stretch gently. Tires need to stretch for a few days to gain the full benefit. Once stretched you will need to prep the base tape for it's first layer of glue. The tape should be free of all contaminants, latex,rubber,etc. use a knife to scrape it clean or a file never use chemicals as they can adversely affect the base tape.
Rims need to be clean just before the fist coat of glue you need to rid them of all contaminates. denatured alcohol or 90+% rubbing alcohol are about the most friendly chemicals I can recommend. Old dried glue must be removed via chemical or scraping any glue that still has elasticity is fine to lean and will lessen the amount of glue by one step.
Wearing of gloves during the cleaning and gluing process are highly recommended to avoid contaminates and to keep you clean.
The first layer of your chosen glue ( personal favorite is Mastic 1) is very important and you need a few things to for this acid brushes are invaluable for cluing buy a package of them to have on hand, some type of small container you can throw out that will hold glue and brush old coffee cups work well, glue always buy one more than you thing or is suggested. Now on to the first layer on the tire inflate the tire with enough pressure to get the base tape to face out and firm enough for pushing in the glue. The first layer on the tire must be scrubbed in to the base tape you need to be cautious not to slop every where but you need to move quickly as the open glue in the cup will be come tacky and use less. I recommenced putting small amounts in the cup about 1/4 of a tube, keep it fresh often. You want a thin even coat scrubbed in the the base tape. Find a place to store for 24hrs.
Now on to the rim you need some sort of support so you can spin the wheel as you go along. An old truing stand , or new one cover in plastic , old fork in a vise will do. The first layer needs again to be thin and scrubbed on just like the base tape though it will be easier it still need to be done. Once done it need to cure for 24 hrs just like the tire.
After the 24 hrs is up it is time to paint on the next thin layer with a new brush on tire and rim. Once done find safe storage again for 24hrs yet again. This step can be skipped if you have old good glue left on your rim.
The last step is the hard work and preparing your self is key a positive attitude and a large piece of cardboard to stand on/ avoid contamination/ save your floor of glue. Not the last layer of glue is painted on in a thin coat just as the previous but you will only wait until it is tacky this time so you can mate the rim and tire. Times can vary for this so do not get into anything else it can be a little as 5min to as long as an hour BE ALERT.
Once the glue is tacky it is time to mate the two the ease way is to push on the tire set the wheel between your legs with the valve hole facing up to you. The tire should be 90% deflated this is so you have a better grip on the tire only. Put the tire on in it's proper orientation if directional tread / sponsor labels. Start with the vale stem in and your hands at 11:00 and 1:00 with your hand gently push on by force the tire by moving your hands down as the tire goes on. Once the tire is all on it is quickly time to ensure that the tire is on true and straight and the vale stem is straight too.
The first thing you need to know is paitence , second thing is cleanliness with these two skills you will have success.
This system requires several days 4 at a minimum because of stretching and drying time of the glue.
Tires need to be stretched on the rims that they will be used on , this is important because not all rims from different manufacturers are the same dimensions. ( usually with in one manufacturer they are the same ) Most tires will go on quite easily on new rims. There is an exception Continental's tires are always on the very tight side there is an excepted trick to help them along, it dose add extra time to the process. Wetting the base tame and gently pushing on the tubular from the valve stem down with make things easier. Once the tire is on it should be inflated to 40-60lbs so that it can stretch gently. Tires need to stretch for a few days to gain the full benefit. Once stretched you will need to prep the base tape for it's first layer of glue. The tape should be free of all contaminants, latex,rubber,etc. use a knife to scrape it clean or a file never use chemicals as they can adversely affect the base tape.
Rims need to be clean just before the fist coat of glue you need to rid them of all contaminates. denatured alcohol or 90+% rubbing alcohol are about the most friendly chemicals I can recommend. Old dried glue must be removed via chemical or scraping any glue that still has elasticity is fine to lean and will lessen the amount of glue by one step.
Wearing of gloves during the cleaning and gluing process are highly recommended to avoid contaminates and to keep you clean.
The first layer of your chosen glue ( personal favorite is Mastic 1) is very important and you need a few things to for this acid brushes are invaluable for cluing buy a package of them to have on hand, some type of small container you can throw out that will hold glue and brush old coffee cups work well, glue always buy one more than you thing or is suggested. Now on to the first layer on the tire inflate the tire with enough pressure to get the base tape to face out and firm enough for pushing in the glue. The first layer on the tire must be scrubbed in to the base tape you need to be cautious not to slop every where but you need to move quickly as the open glue in the cup will be come tacky and use less. I recommenced putting small amounts in the cup about 1/4 of a tube, keep it fresh often. You want a thin even coat scrubbed in the the base tape. Find a place to store for 24hrs.
Now on to the rim you need some sort of support so you can spin the wheel as you go along. An old truing stand , or new one cover in plastic , old fork in a vise will do. The first layer needs again to be thin and scrubbed on just like the base tape though it will be easier it still need to be done. Once done it need to cure for 24 hrs just like the tire.
After the 24 hrs is up it is time to paint on the next thin layer with a new brush on tire and rim. Once done find safe storage again for 24hrs yet again. This step can be skipped if you have old good glue left on your rim.
The last step is the hard work and preparing your self is key a positive attitude and a large piece of cardboard to stand on/ avoid contamination/ save your floor of glue. Not the last layer of glue is painted on in a thin coat just as the previous but you will only wait until it is tacky this time so you can mate the rim and tire. Times can vary for this so do not get into anything else it can be a little as 5min to as long as an hour BE ALERT.
Once the glue is tacky it is time to mate the two the ease way is to push on the tire set the wheel between your legs with the valve hole facing up to you. The tire should be 90% deflated this is so you have a better grip on the tire only. Put the tire on in it's proper orientation if directional tread / sponsor labels. Start with the vale stem in and your hands at 11:00 and 1:00 with your hand gently push on by force the tire by moving your hands down as the tire goes on. Once the tire is all on it is quickly time to ensure that the tire is on true and straight and the vale stem is straight too.
Monday, July 12, 2010
ode to 32 spoked wheeels
plane and boring
is what you are
same as the masses
indeed you be
will be seen
near and far
in past and future
value and price
are what you are
skill and precision
is how you make
you take the trip
on roads here and far
is what you are
same as the masses
indeed you be
will be seen
near and far
in past and future
value and price
are what you are
skill and precision
is how you make
you take the trip
on roads here and far
Saturday, May 1, 2010
Tips , tricks & tibits
These tips will save money for you in the long run by preventive maintenance and a hands on you bike daily.
Fist one is a clean pike is a happy bike and also shows issues far before they become major issues. Daily washes are necessary for day in the saddle in the woods, in the muck of winter, fall, or spring also on rain days. During the dry day of summer if you do not use a sports drink on the bike every few days is just fine. Dawn dish detergent is the pros choice for general cleaning it is a powerful oil and grease remover. You may also need a specific cleaner for stubborn grease and grime,there are many to choose from find one that works for you that you can live with using. Use a stiff bristle brush for the tires and bar tape natural is best as it does no hold on and spread the gunk. My preference for frame cleaning is for a 2.5" natural bristle sash brush. The sash brush is able to get into spots easily to wash and rinse. You will also need a bucket 2-4gal is plenty . I generally avoid spraying today's bikes unless they are a really mess then only a low pressure on the bike. Wash the bike from top to bottom then rinse out the bucket and brushes fill bucket with clean water and rinse with the brushes. If you are an over oilier or just seem to have a chain and cogs that collect crud you will need an additional brush for those surfaces. This time with you bike you should be looking over it very carefully as you wash and rinse looking for frame issue, and component issues.
To keep a drive train the days ( cogs and chain rings) change you chain at 1k-1.2k mi for most daily riders this will be once a month. With the chain change so early you can make you cogs and chain rings last over a season of hard daily use. If you are a racer or one who shifts a lot it is also time to change the inner cables for the derailleurs. The next month you should change the housings and all cables this also necessitates a bar tape swap out too. By keeping the bar tape fresh your hands will be more happy daily, by keeping the cables fresh yo save your self from broken cables that can be quite costly if a head gets jammed in the shifter. ( 200-400 per side)
Fist one is a clean pike is a happy bike and also shows issues far before they become major issues. Daily washes are necessary for day in the saddle in the woods, in the muck of winter, fall, or spring also on rain days. During the dry day of summer if you do not use a sports drink on the bike every few days is just fine. Dawn dish detergent is the pros choice for general cleaning it is a powerful oil and grease remover. You may also need a specific cleaner for stubborn grease and grime,there are many to choose from find one that works for you that you can live with using. Use a stiff bristle brush for the tires and bar tape natural is best as it does no hold on and spread the gunk. My preference for frame cleaning is for a 2.5" natural bristle sash brush. The sash brush is able to get into spots easily to wash and rinse. You will also need a bucket 2-4gal is plenty . I generally avoid spraying today's bikes unless they are a really mess then only a low pressure on the bike. Wash the bike from top to bottom then rinse out the bucket and brushes fill bucket with clean water and rinse with the brushes. If you are an over oilier or just seem to have a chain and cogs that collect crud you will need an additional brush for those surfaces. This time with you bike you should be looking over it very carefully as you wash and rinse looking for frame issue, and component issues.
To keep a drive train the days ( cogs and chain rings) change you chain at 1k-1.2k mi for most daily riders this will be once a month. With the chain change so early you can make you cogs and chain rings last over a season of hard daily use. If you are a racer or one who shifts a lot it is also time to change the inner cables for the derailleurs. The next month you should change the housings and all cables this also necessitates a bar tape swap out too. By keeping the bar tape fresh your hands will be more happy daily, by keeping the cables fresh yo save your self from broken cables that can be quite costly if a head gets jammed in the shifter. ( 200-400 per side)
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